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2-Minute Review: Mama Rose's

When last we saw James Johnson, he was shuttering his Paradise Bar & Grille on Commercial Street and heading for the south side. His reasons were many—streetscape work and factionism on C-Street, but also the allure of finding a real restaurant space with real equipment. This summer he opened Mama Rose’s (1533 W. Battlefield Rd., 417-883-2434) in the strip center next to Dillon’s on West Battlefield (his wife’s restaurant, Judy’s Place, is next door). Last week we gave Mama Rose’s a try.

The Place: We might be a bit jaded here, but only because we were unreasonably fond of the old Paradise, despite (or perhaps because of) its abandoned stripper pole and poorly placed pool table. Mama Rose’s decór is still a work in progress; previous occupants obviously left the place in a bit of a state. The place is clean, though, and there are some nice personal touches, including a photo wall showing all the people to finish James’ famous Ghetto Burger. He’s also planning some soft jazz and blues nights in the near future, which will be a nice touch in southwest Springfield.

The Food: Ah, the Ghetto Burger. It’s still on the menu, as are the Wingapalooza-winning hot wings, fried catfish, and more. I ordered the $5 catfish plate, served with cole slaw (not my favorite, but cole slaw never is) and perfectly seasoned fries. Mama Rose’s menu is, as a whole, remarkably similar to that of Paradise’s, minus the alcohol (James no longer serves it, another reason for his desire to move).

The Verdict: Business was slow the day we were there; it’s a shame, because James hasn’t lost a beat in the kitchen. Mama Rose’s has some of the best (and only) soul food in Springfield. If he can whip the interior into shape, add some visible signage and follow through on his music plans, the affordable, country-style comfort food will make sure James realizes his restaurant dream.