2-Minute Review: 5 Spice China Grill

If restaurants had big brothers, 5 Spice China Grill (2058 S. Glenstone Ave., 417-799-0215) would have a lot to live up to. Owned by John and Johnson Tan, 5 Spice’s location previously belonged to Ocean Zen. When that restaurant moved to bigger digs, the Tans immediately announced 5 Spice, with a Chinese theme a la P.F. Chang’s. Nine months later, it is a reality (and, really, follow-up is so hard to find in the local dining scene). So, does 5 Spice deliver?

The Place: Though the theme and colors have changed, you’ll recognize the old Ocean Zen space. The bar hasn’t moved; table settings are still elegant. But instead of fish tanks, shelves of antiquities (well, antique-looking, anyway) line the walls. Red is the predominant color, and the giant wok outside reminds us fondly of the giant fork that used to sit on South Glenstone.

The Menu: My first instinct is to say the menu is limited in scope, but it will suit most any Chinese taste, and you can expect a regular parade of new dishes from executive chef Johnson Tan. Menu sections are separated by animal-type like so: “From the sky”, “To the sea,” “To the land”. (Note to 5 Spice: Chicken doesn’t fly, but we understand what you’re saying.) The biggest thing that sets 5 Spice apart is portion size: Everything is served “family-style,” which means it comes in a giant dish, and everyone shares. You can get your own entrée, but it’s not encouraged—try not to go with a picky eater. We were flummoxed by the concept at first, but wound up liking it a lot.

The Food: With all apologies to Mr. Yen’s, this is the best Chinese food in Springfield, with prices to match. Anything that includes the words “orange,” “glazed,” or “Mongolian” is a good order, particularly the Mongolian beef dish ($7.95 lunch, $12.95 dinner) and the orange glazed chicken ($7.95, lunch only). If you have room for dessert, don’t miss the Great Wall cake ($5), a flourless chocolate cake that eats like a brownine. If you’re drinking, you must order the wasabi-soy Bloody Mary ($7).

The Verdict: 5 Spice was worth every week of waiting, and every dime spent. Once it catches on it will be the success that Ocean Zen is. We can’t wait.