Two-Minute Review: Baja Grill

Springfield Mexican restaurants start to step up.

Considering Qdoba is firmly entrenched in Springfield, along with the imminent arrival of chain-Mex powerhouse Chipotle, Springfield’s Mexican restaurants (not named Maria’s) are going to have to step up their games. Consider Tamale King’s Baja Grill (2926 S. Campbell Ave., 417-883-6833) locked and loaded.

This place isn’t new, but it recently closed for several weeks to remodel, and the effects are excellent. The decorations are classier than your typical Mex joint, more Sedona than Santa Fe, and the bar a bit shinier. Only the new breezeway stood out as a major structural addition.

The food is very good, beginning with the menu itself, which is easily the most attractive Mexican menu in town. Bye-bye long lists of dishes in tiny fonts, hello photos and nicely written descriptions. My dining partner ordered the lunch-portion fajitas ($6.99); I opted for the marinated pork torta ($6.99) which is basically a Mexican sandwich (you can also order it with chicken or pork tips.)

I found the bread-to-pork ratio on the torta a bit high—I felt like I was eating bland, slightly sourdough-ish bread long after the meat was gone. It was tasty, punctuated by two slices of real, fresh avocado. My companion’s fajitas were “standard-issue” in composition, though the beef was far more tender than at most places. He also wished they’d brought more of the authentic flour tortillas.

The service was friendly and attentive, though not what you would call lightning-quick. But that’s okay; if we want fast-food Mexican, we know where to find it.