2-Minute Review: Tortillas

South Springfield's new Tex-Mex joint is eclectic and delicious.

THE PLACE: Tortillas Comida Deluxe (1540 W. Republic Rd., 417-883-7555) is located in the old Charlie’s Chicken location on West Republic Road. While the outside is still a barn, the interior is an eBay hound’s dream. Nothing matches. Chairs, glasses, tables; they’re all hodgepodge. The walls are painted in bright, primary colors, and Tortillas customers are invited to scrawl messages on the walls and beams of the restaurant.

THE MENU: By Mexican restaurant standards, it’s limited—you won’t be ordering “Number 56” here. But there are all the staples, with actual descriptions, most of them written Speedy Gonzales–style (Fish Tacos = “ees feesh tacos”) that some might find offensive, but I found hilarious. Prices were acceptable, if slightly high. The entire menu, Spanglish and all, can be seen at tortillascomidadeluxe.com.

THE FOOD: My brother-in-law and dining partner, John Schindele, joined me on this trip, mainly because he knows more about Mexican food than anyone I know. We tried both the complimentary house salsa and the queso dip ($3.50). I liked the salsa—it was fresh and chunky—though John thought it was a bit onion-y. The queso was adequate, though could have used more zip. Our entrées were both superb: I ordered the enchiladas Cadillac ($8), which use chopped fajita chicken rather than the usual shredded stuff. The beef taco ($2) was also very good, the meat seasoned just right.

John ordered a simple burrito ($7), and pronounced it tasty, though he wished he’d ordered a sauce other than the Poblano cream. I didn’t care much for my refried beans (too runny) but John gobbled them up.

THE SCORE: John gave Tortillas a solid B or B+. I’ll agree with that, possibly nudging it into A range for decór.